I had set out for the beach. I had reached the beach. I had no idea what to do on this beach. So, after an expensive poor breakfast, I braved myself to try out surfing.

What a moment. The teacher was wonderful and cheery. I believe the city inflicts great harm upon one’s temperament.

The first time I entered into the water, I fell in love. The crashing waves which had to be treated with care yet bested by me. It felt like a great battle with nature. It felt like a fair battle too, each time I slipped she would slap me with her waves. My chest is red and bruised, a lovely souvenir.

I learned to surf. It is a wonderful core workout. The feeling of successfully riding a wave for the first time is unmatched. For the first time in a long time, it felt like I had something worthwhile to focus on.

I will go back.